Where to Stay in Buenos Aires: A Neighbourhood Guide

Buenos Aires neighbourhood, La Boca

If there’s a city I could imagine myself living in, it’s Buenos Aires. Fun, vibrant and artistic, every barrio feels like its own bubble infused with a unique personality.

After spending a month in Patagonia, I spent another month and a half enjoying everything this incredible city has to offer. From rooftop bars and open-air cinemas to endless tango classes and exploring different neighbourhoods, it’s easy to spend weeks roaming around without ever running out of things to do.

What I loved most about Buenos Aires is how you could be as energetic or as lazy as you wanted. One minute, you could be exploring the colourful corners of La Boca, and then next, watching a sultry tango performance alongside a gregarious crowd.

And then there’s the nightlife (literally!)… Even at 2 am, I love how people are out walking their dogs as you make your way home from a night out. Because, well… in Buenos Aires that’s basically their 9 pm!

If you’re feeling a little overwhelmed by where to base yourself, I totally get it. I hopped around a few different neighbourhoods. With so many to choose from, knowing where to start can be tricky. So, whether it’s your first time in Buenos Aires or you’re planning a longer stay, I’ve narrowed it down to a select few depending on your travel style and what you’d like to experience.

Here are the best places to stay in Buenos Aires for your travels.


Where to Stay: Top Picks

Cosy apartments in Palermo Modern Apartments - by BueRentals
An oasis in Palermo Soho BE Jardin Escondido By Coppola
Beautiful apartments in Recoleta Hub Porteño
Charming in San Telmo Lina's Tango Guesthouse
Budget-friendly downtown V&S Hostel Boutique
Artistic boutique hotel downtown Cassa Lepage Art Hotel Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires Neighbourhood Map

Click the top-left box outlined with the right arrow to view the neighbourhood key


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Barrio Best for...
Palermo First-timers looking for a lively atmosphere, with cafés and restaurants on their doorstep
Recoleta First-timers looking for an upscale neighbourhood with elegant architecture and a central location
San Telmo For cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, street art and tango
Puerto Madero Those looking for modern, upscale accommodation along a polished waterfront
Villa Crespo Longer stays on a budget, with Palermo's restaurants and nightlife close by
Microcentro Shorter stays focused on downtown
Caballito Longer stays in a quieter, more residential neighbourhood with a local feel
Almagro A well-connected central base with easy access to public transport
Graffiti art in Buenos Aires

Urban art in Buenos Aires

Where to Stay in Palermo

As Buenos Aires’ largest barrio, with distinct sub-neighbourhoods, Palermo is brimming with independent boutique shops, galleries, and bookstores. With urban art scattered throughout its streets, Palermo’s magnetic charm, walkable streets, thriving nightlife and vibrant culinary scene make it one of the best places to stay in Buenos Aires.

If it’s your first time in Buenos Aires, Palermo would be my top choice. It’s a neighbourhood where you can spend your days wandering without a plan or hop on public transport to get wherever you need to go. There are also plenty of green spaces, and the Bosques de Palermo are nearby if you need a peaceful escape from the urban buzz. During the summer, there are also various locations for open-air cinema under the stars, so keep an eye out for the schedule.

I stayed in a few different apartments in Palermo and loved it. Whether it’s a summer evening on a rooftop bar or settling in for a drink alongside chatty Argentinians after a language exchange, there’s no shortage of places to spend an evening.

As a more upscale neighbourhood, Palermo can be pricier to stay in, so you might prefer neighbouring Villa Crespo if you’re on a budget. Getting to San Telmo can also take around 45 minutes by bus, and it can feel a bit more like a bubble with the number of tourists and expats.

That said, if you're in the city for New Year’s, as one of my hosts put it, you can’t really go wrong with Palermo😉

Here are some of the best hotels and apartments in Palermo worth checking out:

Modern Apartments in Palermo - by BueRentals

Located in Alto Palermo right next to Recoleta, you’re in a really good location with a large number of cafes and restaurants nearby. The apartments are modern and range from studio style to one-bedroom and two-bedroom.


BE Jardin Escondido By Coppola

A beautiful boutique hotel with a lot of charm and character, it’s located in Palermo Soho close to many restaurants and bars. A quiet oasis tucked away in bustling Palermo, there’s a small pool to relax in at the end of your day.


Casa Caravan - Plant-Based Concept House

A budget-friendly, plant-based hostel in Palermo Soho, with a bright, thoughtfully designed interior and a pool for warmer days. It has a sociable atmosphere, plus a yoga studio and plenty of options for breakfast. It’s a good option if you want somewhere relaxed to stay while exploring Buenos Aires.


Deluxe Apartments in Palermo

Nestled in Palermo Hollywood, these stunning apartment suites (some with a jacuzzi) make for a really comfortable stay. You’re within walking distance of cafes, restaurants and shops plus the metro is just around the corner.


1828 Smart Hotel Boutique

An upscale boutique hotel in Palermo, with individually designed rooms and a small pool for relaxing after a day out. There’s also a spa service if you fancy a massage. Its central location makes it easy to walk to many of the neighbourhood’s restaurants and bars.

 

Where to Stay in Recoleta

Bordering Palermo, Recoleta is one of Buenos Aires’ more opulent and upscale neighbourhoods. It’s a prime location to base yourself if you prefer elegant architecture and a more refined atmosphere.

One of the neighbourhood’s highlights is Recoleta Cemetery, the final resting place of some of Argentina’s most notable figures, including Eva Perón and several former presidents. Right next door, you’ll find the beautiful Church of Our Lady of Pilar. I highly recommend joining a free guided walking tour of Recoleta Cemetery, which usually departs from the cemetery entrance. It’s a great way to learn more about Argentina’s history.

el ateneo grand splendid

El Ateneo Grand Splendid

What I loved most about Recoleta is that it’s easy to explore on foot, with elaborate architecture and beautiful buildings around every corner. Make sure to visit El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a stunning bookstore housed in a former theatre. I loved spending a lazy afternoon or two here, while sipping a coffee. The preserved stage, ornate balconies and grand interiors make it a memorable place to wander, and sometimes a much-needed escape from the heat.

Although Recoleta is more expensive, its central location makes it easy to get around by public transport, whether you’re heading to Plaza de Mayo in downtown Buenos Aires, neighbouring Palermo or taking the 30-minute bus ride to San Telmo.

Here are some of the best hotels and apartments in Recoleta worth checking out:

Mio Buenos Aires

A stylish and comfortable boutique hotel, rooms are elegantly decorated with a unique touch. There are also spa and fitness facilities on-site for anyone looking to relax after a day of exploring.


Hub Porteño

Inside a beautiful residential building, rooms are beautifully and tastefully decorated. Centrally located and close to restaurants, you’re also within walking distance to the Recoleta Cemetery and El Ateneo Grand Splendid.


Poetry Building Recoleta

With cosy and quirky apartment suites, it’s in a prime location within walking distance of a lot of attractions. The apartments are well-equipped, and many have a balcony looking out onto the city.


San Telmo and La boca

Where to Stay in San Telmo

One of Buenos Aires' oldest barrios, San Telmo is lined with cobblestone streets, historic mansions, and seductive street tango, making it feel, in many ways, like the heart of the city.

With its colonial architecture, colourful street art, and traditional parrillas, it feels more historic and laid-back than the trendier streets of Palermo. With tango woven into daily street performances and in between restaurant tables, you can be entertained for hours on end.

Head to San Telmo Market for its mouth-watering empanadas. I found some incredible ones baked in a wood-fired oven, and they were well worth the wait! And if you’re stopping by El Gran Paraíso, I recommend trying some of the traditional Argentinian meat… it was delicious!

San Telmo can be a good choice if you want to stay somewhere with history, plenty of charm and a strong local food scene, with the colourful streets and famous Caminito of nearby La Boca just around the corner.

La Boca neighbourhood

Boca Juniors

If you’re hoping to catch a football match at the iconic La Bombonera stadium, my walking tour guide mentioned that it’s best to go with a trusted tour guide or agency, as access and police lockdowns can make attending a football match more complicated than you might expect. Most tickets are also restricted to members.

If you’re a fan, you can visit the museum although be mindful of match day, as access can be restricted and tickets are not cheap.

Compared to Palermo and Recoleta, San Telmo can feel grittier, so I’d take a little more care when walking around, particularly at night. Choose your accommodation location carefully and use a taxi if you’re unsure about walking back after dark.

Here are some of the best hotels and apartments in San Telmo worth checking out:

Lina's Tango Guesthouse

Cosy and full of character, and nestled in a central location in San Telmo, it’s an ideal place to base yourself if you’re looking to experience the Tango scene in Buenos Aires.


Bellinzona Boutique

Inside a historic building, rooms are spacious and comfortable. With San Telmo Market and cute cobblestone streets on your doorstep, there’s so much to explore in your neighbourhood.


Cassa Lepage Art Hotel Buenos Aires

While not exactly in San Telmo, you’re a very easy walk away (roughly 4 blocks). If you’re looking for something cosy and modern while being on the doorstep of San Telmo, it’s worth checking out this artistic boutique hotel in central Buenos Aires.


Puerto Madero Buenos Aires
ecological reserve Buenos Aires

Where to Stay in Puerto Madero

In contrast to the historic charm of neighbouring San Telmo, Puerto Madero is one of Buenos Aires’ newer barrios, with a much more polished feel. Its contemporary high-rises, spacious waterfront and wide footpaths make it a calmer place to explore during the day, with joggers and cyclists passing by.

cycling in puerto madero

Cycling in Puerto Madero

I loved taking a relaxed golden hour stroll along the waterfront during the summer, but my favourite way to explore was by bike. I rented one of the city bikes and rode out to the ecological reserve, which offers a refreshing change of scenery from the surrounding urban landscape. With its flat terrain and dedicated bike lanes, Puerto Madero is an ideal neighbourhood for exploring on two wheels.

Puerto Madero is also worth considering if you'd prefer a more residential base with upscale hotels and restaurants close by. As evening approaches, the waterfront becomes a popular place to linger over dinner and enjoy the warm summer nights.

Here are some of the best hotels and apartments in Puerto Madero worth checking out:

Trendy Apartment in Puerto Madero

In a prime location and with modern comforts, you’re close to restaurants and San Telmo. The views are amazing, and you’ll be spoilt for choice with nearby cafes and bars.


Alvear Icon Hotel

A stunning hotel with incredible views over the city and river. Rooms are beautifully and tastefully designed, and you’re in a really good location close to several restaurants.


sunsets in Villa Crespo buenos aires

Sunsets in Villa Crespo

heating up a parilla in buenos aires apartment

Where to Stay in Villa Crespo

I spent three weeks in Villa Crespo, a neighbourhood that worked really well for a longer stay. My rooftop apartment even had an asado grill, making it a lovely place to entertain and experience local life while staying within easy reach of Palermo’s restaurants, shops and nightlife.

As an up-and-coming neighbourhood with a more residential feel, the barrio is still evolving compared to its busier neighbour. If you have some spare time, head to Calle Murillo, which is known for its wide range of leather goods.

Villa Crespo is worth considering if you’re looking for more affordable accommodation without feeling too far removed from Buenos Aires’ food and social scene.

Here are some of the best hotels and apartments in Villa Crespo worth checking out:

Primavera Suites

A really cute studio apartment. If you’re looking to stay in Buenos Aires for a longer stay, this one is worth checking out. With modern amenities, you’re within walking distance of Palermo Soho.


Acevedo 716

A more budget-friendly option in Villa Crespo, with modern rooms, some of which have balconies. The location is handy for exploring Palermo, with cafés, bars and shops within walking distance. A good choice if you prefer an apartment-style stay that feels like a home away from home.


Perfecto Familias: Terraza Privada y Parrilla

A two-bedroom apartment that works well for families or larger groups; it’s modern and beautifully decorated. There’s also a grill you can use on the terrace to host an asado (Argentinian barbecue).


view of neighbourhood in buenos aires

Where Else to Stay in Buenos Aires

Microcentro

Located within the barrios San Nicolás and Monserrat, you might be wondering why I’ve left Microcentro until the end!

With many of the city’s main sights clustered here, including the Obelisco and Plaza de Mayo, Microcentro is a natural starting point for exploring Buenos Aires’ history. I joined a free walking tour to learn more about the historic landmarks and Argentina’s past. During my tour (on a very rainy day!), I loved learning about how Paris had been the role model for Buenos Aires, inspiring the city to emulate a distinctly European feel.

eating shoulder to shoulder at Pizzería Güerrin

Pizzería Güerrin

If you’re in the area, be sure to stop by Güerrín, recommended to me by several Porteños (locals of Buenos Aires).

Founded by two Italian immigrants in the 1930s, the restaurant’s become an icon in Buenos aires. Located on Av. Corrientes 1368, it’s the perfect place to stop off for a quick bite.

The local favourite: A slice of Muzzarella… Bonus points if you can time it when the pizza’s just come out the oven!

And in case you’re wondering, eating standing up, shoulder to shoulder is all part of the experience 😉.

However, Microcentro is also one of the city’s main commercial districts, which can make the atmosphere feel very different from the city’s more residential barrios. While it’s well worth spending time exploring, I’d recommend using Microcentro as a base for a shorter visit, as other neighbourhoods offer a better feel for everyday life in Buenos Aires.

Here are some hotels in Microcentro worth checking out:

Huinid Obelisco Hotel

A modern hotel in the heart of downtown Buenos Aires, it has gym facilities and a spa that’s free to use and relax in. It is within walking distance of the Obelisk and the Teatro Colón and is also close to many restaurants.


Tanguero Hotel Boutique Antique

A beautiful, vintage boutique hotel with lots of character and rooms decorated in a tango theme. Located in a traditional building, it’s very close to the Obelisk.


V&S Hostel Boutique

A budget-friendly place to stay; you’re in a prime location to explore downtown Buenos Aires, approximately a 40-minute walk or a 25-minute bus ride to San Telmo Market.


474 Buenos Aires Hotel

In the heart of downtown, located in a quieter area, the rooms are spacious and modern. You’re close to many of the main sites in Buenos Aires. Public transport is also nearby, making it easy to get around the city.


Caballito

I stayed in an apartment in Caballito for a few days and found it easy to get around by bus. It’s a little further out from the main sights, so I wouldn’t recommend staying here if you only have a few days in Buenos Aires.

However, for a longer stay, it’s a more budget-friendly option. With its quieter, residential feel, Caballito offers a glimpse of everyday life beyond the city’s more touristy neighbourhoods.

Hermoso-Corazón de la Ciudad-Caballito

On the borders of Almagro and Villa Crespo, this apartment is a really great budget-friendly find. It’s close to Ángel Gallardo station on line B, which can connect you to downtown in around 10 - 15 minutes.


Moderno, Céntrico, Caballito

Comfortable and modern, this apartment is close to Rio de Janeiro station on Line A, which connects you to Plaza de Mayo right in the heart of downtown Buenos Aires. Bright and airy, there’s a large double bedroom and a living room with a sofa bed.


Almagro

Almagro was actually the first neighbourhood I stayed in when I spent winter in Buenos Aires, and I loved it!

It doesn’t often get recommended as a neighbourhood for first-time visitors, yet it’s a convenient base for exploring the city, with easy access to the Subte network. However, parts of the neighbourhood do have a more commercial feel than others.

And if you fancy trying tango, La Catedral, a famous milonga in the neighbourhood, is a must-do! It’s an iconic venue where you can dance until dawn, soaking up the city’s vibrant tango scene. I took tango classes here every week and loved the experience! It’s also a great way to make some new friends in the city 🙂. Another venue worth checking out for dance classes is Estudio Cultura Tango, also a short bus ride from other barrios like Palermo.

Here are some  hotels in Almagro worth checking out:

Casa Umare

A quiet and elegant boutique hotel; the apartments are in a central location between Medrano and Carlos Gardel Metro stops. Inside a historic building, the rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated.


Konke Buenos Aires Hotel

With comfortable modern rooms, there’s a rooftop swimming pool and fitness centre. With easy access to public transport, you’re in a great location for exploring Buenos Aires.

 

Where to Avoid in Buenos Aires

It’s worth keeping in mind that some areas of Buenos Aires are best avoided after dark. La Boca, for example, is popular to explore during the day, but locals generally advise against wandering in the evening.

The same applies to parts of Retiro, particularly the area around the train station, so it’s worth being mindful of your surroundings when exploring these neighbourhoods.

San Telmo barrio

I hope you enjoyed this packed post of where to stay in Buenos Aires! Let me know where you end up staying in the comments below!

Happy travels!


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