Everything You Need to Know About Hiking in El Chaltén, Patagonia
My week in El Chaltén is the best trekking experience I have ever had.
Hand on heart.
It's hard to put into words. El Chaltén had everything Patagonia could offer. From cascading waterfalls, sparkling sapphire lagunas, towering snow-coned mountains, thundering glaciers, tranquil forests, and not to mention a lovely, quaint little town full of friendly locals welcoming visitors to one of the most beautiful national parks.
I have a lot to write up about my time in Patagonia, and hopefully, by the time I have finished, El Chaltén will be at the top of your bucket list.
Hiking in El Chaltén
As a solo traveller, El Chaltén and Patagonia, in general, felt incredibly safe and easy to travel. Hitchhiking is common across the region, and I even gave it a go on an occasion or two. I met a few people on a tour; however, tours really aren't necessary for hiking in El Chaltén. You're very likely to meet people along the way, and if you don't, most of the treks are easily accessible even for the novice hiker.
What I loved most about El Chaltén is that there's a hike for everyone, of all abilities. This meant that there are families with children as well as experienced hikers, creating a wonderful vibe and mix of people you'll meet along the way.
The best part?
After blowing $1000 US on hiking the W Circuit in Torres del Paine, El Chaltén came as a breath of fresh air (much to the relief of my budget!), as it's 100% free to enter and trek in the national park, Los Glaciares (update: There is now a fee to enter the park; however, it’s still a lot more reasonable than the W Circuit.)
A hikers haven, my only expenses during the time were my dorm bed and food. The popular trails are well-marked, and all the trails begin pretty much on the doorstep of your hostel, on one end of town or the other.
As a small town of approximately 1000 people, it's easy to make the mistake of thinking a day or two will suffice. There are so many hikes that even after a week, there's more to do.
Here's a hiking guide for El Chaltén and why you absolutely must not go for just a day or two!
Laguna Torre | Los Glaciares… Taking a moment to admire
Chorillo del Salto
Difficulty: Easy
Distance: 3km
Time: 1 hour (one way)
A pleasant hike to a waterfall; this is a great hike for a day when you feel like going easy or just having a picnic somewhere nice on a sunny day.
In the winter, the waterfall freezes as the temperature will drop well below the negatives.
El Chalten
I'm flying...
El Chalten
Los Cóndores + Las Águilas
Difficulty: Easy
Distance: 2- 3 km
Time: 1-1.5 hours (one way)
These hikes can be done together. Unfortunately, I didn't spot any condors in the air, but there are some nice lookout points. As you hike up to the viewpoints, the views over El Chaltén and the mountains are lovely.
Handy tip: You can combine Chorillo del Salto, Los Cóndores + Las Águilas in one afternoon.
Looking out over El Chaltén
Laguna Torre
Difficulty: Low-Medium
Distance: 11km (to Maestri viewpoint)
Time: 3-4 hours (one way)
An absolutely stunning glacier. To get up close, take the path to the right for Mirador Maestri. It's around another 45 minutes to the viewpoint and totally worth it! However, when it's too windy, it can be tricky to hike to this viewpoint; definitely check the weather and wind speeds before you go.
If you choose to continue to Mirador Maestri, the trail becomes a little trickier to spot. We ended up taking the wrong path completely, but the views were equally, if not more, spectacular.
Getting up close to Laguna Torre
Laguna de los Tres (FITZ ROY)
Difficulty: Medium
Distance: 12.5km (one way)
Time: 4 hours (one way)
For the most part, this trail starts as a gentle uphill and then is relatively flat until the final hour, when you'll be climbing up over rocks and boulders.
You'll pass Laguna Capri as you weave in and around the forest and rivers. If you're lucky to get a sunny, clear day, this is without a question the hike to do. Fitz Roy is known for having its peak in the clouds.
At the top, the view is stunning over Laguna de Los Tres with Fitz Roy in the background. For an extra 5 minutes, head up the hill on your left for a spectacular view of Laguna Sucia and its dazzling sapphire water.
This hike was so spectacular, I wrote an entire blog post for it right here.
That was one heck of a climb. Yay!!
That blue!
Loma del Pliegue Tumbado
Difficulty: Medium
Distance: 10km (one way)
Time: 4 hours (one way)
For some reason, this hike gets skipped a lot. If you're in the area, do it!! The views over the mountains are breathtaking.
The first viewpoint is amazing. For an even more spectacular panoramic view, climb the hill on the left. There's a 'marked' trail if you look closely, zig-zagging its way to the top of Pliegue Tumbado. It's windy as hell and quite slippery on the way up, but so worth it!!
Check the weather before you go because this hike is really windy on a regular day, let alone when there's a storm looming.
Almost getting blown away on Loma del Pliegue Tumbado
Glacier Piedras Blancas
Difficulty: Easy
Distance: 10km (one way)
Time: 3-4 hours (one way)
If you're feeling up for it on the way back from Fitz Roy, Glacier Piedras Blancas is a nice one to add onto the end. It's relatively flat to get to, with a wonderful mirador of the glacier.
Glacier Piedras Blancas
Laguna Toro
Difficulty: Hard
Distance: 16km (one way)
Time: 7 hours (one way)
This is a challenging hike and involves an overnight camping stay. I didn't do this hike myself, but I met a Swiss guy who managed to complete it in a day. The views over the Southern Ice Field are amazing.
You need to register at the visitor's centre if you're thinking about hiking this one. The trail is not well marked, and it's important to get as much information as possible before you leave.
Lago del Desierto
Difficulty: Easy
Distance: 37km (you'll need a transfer to and from the lake)
Time: 6 hours
If you have the time, this lake is a wonderful day out. You'll get a different perspective of Fitz Roy and can also take a boat ride on the lake. You can also trek up the Huemel Glacier.
El Chalten
Huemul Circuit
Difficulty: Very hard + technical
Distance: 70km
Time: 4-5 days
Did I think about doing this trek?
Yep.
Did I end up doing it?
Hell no.
This trek is not for someone who started hiking 3 months ago. The views over the Southern Patagonian Ice Fields are stunning. However, you'll need to be fully equipped and carry all your gear for the duration of the trek. In other words, the more experience you have, the better.
Maybe one day. Just not today :)
Are there any more hikes in El Chaltén
Absolutely!! Including glacier trekking! Patagonia is an endless adventure that you can keep coming back to time and time again.
When you arrive in El Chaltén by bus, you'll be welcomed at the visitor's centre and given a map and explanation of the region. The visitor's centre is really useful for any information, so don't hesitate to go down there and ask.
Trekking on Perito Moreno Glacier
Other things to do in El Chaltén
I love El Chaltén. It's my favourite town in the whole of South America (El Hoyo second!).
I would have stayed longer than a week. But as Christmas was looming and prices were going to go up for the summer, I decided to spend a few days in El Hoyo and Bariloche before heading to Buenos Aires for New Year’s.
For dinner, I'd highly recommend El Muro for a fine piece of Patagonian lamb. Their asado is delicious too!
Get some mate, of course! And if you get stuck indoors on a stormy day, head to the Chocolateria for a warm cup of cocoa.
Mate time!
How to get to El Chaltén
From Bariloche, fly to El Calafate and then get a bus to El Chaltén. You can also take a bus for 24 hours with El Chaltén Travel.
There are regular buses between El Calafate and El Chaltén.
Where to stay in El Chaltén
In peak season, El Chaltén can get booked up in advance, especially as Argentina and Chile have their summer holidays in January. So it's definitely worth making reservations ahead of time.
Budget-friendly places to stay
Rancho Grande
I stayed at Rancho Grande for $10 US a night in a 4-bed dorm room. Even as one of the bigger hostels, it got booked out in advance. If you're looking for somewhere clean with a decent kitchen, I'd recommend it!
Lo de Trivi
Well-equipped for a comfortable stay. It’s located on the main street with easy access to all the trails.
Nomade bedbox Hostel
Providing a little more privacy with boxed-in beds, it’s a smaller hostel with comfortable communal areas.
Beautiful hotels and apartments to stay in
Pitihué Aparts
Close to the trailheads and some lovely cafes, the apartments are homely and beautifully decorated. Quiet and comfortable, it’s a lovely place to relax after a long day hiking.
Kaulem Hotel Boutique
Overlooking the peaks of Fitz Roy, it’s a beautiful small hotel with a cosy and rustic feel. Around 10 minutes from the bus station and 5 minutes from the main street, you’re also close to all the trailheads.
If you’re looking for an experience in El Chalten
Aguas Arriba Lodge
Located just outside El Chaltén and surrounded by forests, glaciers, lakes and mountains, this lodge offers panoramic views of Fitz Roy, Torre hill and Vespignani glacier. With several hiking trails nearby and an in-house chef serving delicious Argentinian cuisine, it's the perfect place to immerse yourself in Patagonia's wilderness.
Fun fact: The only way to reach the lodge is by boat or on foot.
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Spending a week in El Chalten, Patagonia, one of my favorite hikes has got to be Loma del Pliegue Tumbado. For some reason, this hike gets skipped a lot. But the panoramic views of the snow cones mountains of Patagonia are absolutely worth an extra day...