5 Simple Steps to Exploring the Rainbow Mountains of Peru: Without a Tour
If you're heading to Cusco in Peru, you'll have more than likely heard about the Rainbow Mountains, Vinicunca and Palccoyo, which have pretty much become a sensation in Peru. While most people will visit the Rainbow Mountains in large tours, it is absolutely possible (and way more fun) to go without a tour group.
With hundreds, if not over a thousand people visiting a day, it can be tricky, if not a little annoying, to be in a swarm of crowds.
So here's a step-by-step guide on how to visit Rainbow Mountain without the hordes of fellow travellers.
The most famous of rainbow mountains is Vinicunca (also known as Montaña de Siete Colores/Montaña de Colores) nestled at an elevation of 5200m. This is the rainbow mountain you've most likely heard of and have your heart set on visiting. It's around 1.5 hours of hiking to get to the top, with the last 800m being the hardest, due to the altitude.
The lesser-known rainbow mountain, not as touristy but growing in popularity (and secretly my fave!) is Palccoyo rainbow mountain. A hidden gem not far from its bigger sister, Vinicunca, is a much easier hike, only requiring around 40 minutes to the viewpoints.
Eager to visit, I spent a few good hours researching online and talking to locals.
Both Vinicunca and Palccoyo Rainbow Mountain have a similar route on public transport. So whichever one you decide to do, they both start off in the same direction.
You'll also get a chance to see Red Mountain from both of them.
How to visit Rainbow Mountain without a tour
A view of the Red Mountains from Palccoyo with my furry hiking buddy
Step 1: Get a bus from Cusco to Checacupe
If you're taking a tour, you'll have to wake up early!! Many tours leave around 3 am to "beat the crowds" at Vinicunca, with a few tours leaving later at 6- 7 a.m.
My number one piece of advice if going alone: sleep in and leave a little later. Aim to grab a collectivo from Avenida Tomasa Tito Condemayla (just opposite the hospital) towards Ocongate between 8-9 am.
Collectivos leave every hour; just mention to the bus driver you want to get off in the town of Checacupe.
Cost: 7-8 Soles one way
Journey time to Checacupe: approx. 2 hours
Handy tip: On maps.me, the bus stop in Cusco is marked as "buses to Tinke, ccatcca, ocongate".
Step 2: Grab a taxi in Checacupe
The collectivo will drop you off on the main road where you'll see a taxi stand. Here you can take a taxi to either Vinicunca or Palccoyo Rainbow Mountain.
A taxi to Vinicunca will cost between 100-120 soles, and a taxi to Palccoyo will cost around 150-200 soles depending on your bartering skills.
Confirm with the taxi driver that they'll drive you there, wait for you while you hike the mountain and bring you back to Checacupe.
Handy tip: Checacupe is a small little town, and if you ponder around the main square you'll find a decent public toilet you can use for 1 sole and some little shops to pick up some snacks. The tour companies also stop by here.
Step 3: Hike Rainbow Mountain
If you've chosen to go to Vinicunca Rainbow, it'll be around a 2-hour drive to the starting point from Checacupe. You should arrive by 12-1pm which provides enough time to hike to the top.
On your way up, you'll more than likely encounter the tour groups on their way down.
For the Palccoyo rainbow mountain, the drive is a little further, and it will take around 2.5 hours. The good news is that it's pretty easy to hike to the viewpoints once you're there.
The hiking trails are really obvious, so you can't really get lost. If in doubt, the local taxi driver can point you in the right direction.
Handy tip: The cold and altitude drained my iPhone battery at the top of Vinicunca. Bring a spare battery pack just in case.
Entrance fee: 10 soles
Rainbow Valleys!
Step 4: Head back to Checacupe
Aim to take the taxi back to Checacupe by around 4 pm, so that you're not hiking down in the dark. Hopefully, the weather is great, and you've got some great photos to share!
Step 5: Bus back to Cusco
There are regular buses to Cusco from Checacupe, from the same main road that you arrived on. If in doubt, let your taxi driver know, and he'll tell you where to stand to catch the bus to Cusco.
We caught the bus at 7 pm and arrived at the central bus station in Cusco at 9 pm.
Exploring the lesser known rainbow ditch. Unfortunately, the hike to the top of Vinicunca was somewhat of a disappointment weather-wise.
Summary for exploring Rainbow Mountain without a tour group
Get a collectivo from Cusco to Checacupe around 8 am
From Checacupe, use your best Spanish to negotiate a taxi around 10 am
Hike Rainbow Mountain around 12-1 pm
Head back to Checacupe in your taxi around 4 pm
Get a bus back to Cusco around 7 pm
It's that simple!!
Important note...
While I would highly recommend visiting Rainbow Mountain without the crowds, it's important to note that you will be alone on the trail (along with some alpacas). Vinicunca Rainbow Mountain can be a challenging hike, especially if you are not acclimatised to the altitude.
Some tour companies have oxygen masks and first aid kits on hand, not to mention some coca tea. Therefore, if you have any worries or concerns about the altitude, you may prefer to travel with a tour guide.
Alternatively, you can also pay a fee to take a horse to the top of Vinicunca Rainbow Mountain if you're really struggling.
Another handy tip: the weather varies a lot in the mountains. I visited both and was lucky on one day and really unlucky on the other.
Word amongst taxi drivers in Cusco: if it's raining in Cusco, it's probably snowing in the mountains. If you go, it's best to travel on a clear day. I'm not sure how accurate this is, but I thought I'd share! :)
The hikes are beautiful, so even if you do encounter bad weather, it'll still be an experience!
Where to stay in Cusco
There are loads of options in Cusco when deciding where to stay.
Cozy modern heart of city
If you need somewhere modern and comfortable after a long trek or if you’re feeling tired from the altitude, this apartment is worth checking out. It’s in a good location in Cusco and is well-equipped for a relaxing stay.
CASA CRISTOBAL Siete Cuartones
With spacious rooms and in a good location, it’s a little quirky on the inside.
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